CAR-FREE NATURE ESCAPADE IN THE GREAT SITES - FROM CARCASSONNE TO BÉZIERS VIA THE SOUTH

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Arriving by train in Carcassonne, our escapade to Béziers begins on a mild, sunny morning. We stroll through the lively streets of the bastide Saint-Louis, stopping at a fountain. With a detour to Les Halles, we stock up on fresh produce for the day's picnic. We imagine what life must have been like behind the ancient fortifications surrounding the bastide. Arriving at the Pont Vieux, we are instantly transported back in time by the view of the medieval town. Below, a few sheep graze on the fresh grass of the Ile d'Aude, where a few herons rest. We cross the 14th-century bridge to enjoy a tapas bar where Jean-Loup offers us a multitude of delicious dishes. He's a fascinating man, telling us anecdotes about his dishes and his love of the region. We take a walk along the ramparts of the Chateau Comtal to enjoy the view of the surrounding wine-growing countryside, then pick up the bikes that will accompany us on the rest of our journey. Before leaving Carcassonne, we stop to tie up our bikes and set off on foot along the GR36, which takes us to the heights of Pech Mary. From here, we enjoy an unforgettable view of the Cité and the surrounding countryside. We take our time to savor its beauty. As the sun begins to set, it's time to get back in the saddle. Along the way, we take in the exceptional views of the wine-growing landscape, lit up by golden light. At the entrance to Trèbes, a winding road leads us into the heart of the Val de Daigne, towards the town of Lagrasse! Recognized as one of the "Most Beautiful Villages in France", Lagrasse is set in a vast amphitheatre surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. This ancient capital of the Corbières region charms us with its ramparts and famous Benedictine abbey.

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The medieval town of Lagrasse can be discovered slowly, like leafing through an old book. To start the day, it's a pleasure to stroll along the cobbled streets and admire the centuries-old stone houses. Our steps naturally lead us to the covered market hall, where we imagine the generations of craftsmen, merchants and clothmakers who have passed through this place for over six hundred years. We take the old bridge linking the village to the abbey, to walk in the footsteps of the monks. We marvel at the abbey's rich heritage, witness to its medieval past. After this immersion in time, we take a path up to the Cigalière rock to reach a viewpoint overlooking the abbey, the valley and the Hautes-Corbières. We then head for another equally remarkable abbey, Fontfroide. At the sight of the Orbiteur, a tributary of the Aude river, we can't resist the call of its clear waters and set foot in it! Refreshed by this life-saving stop, we continue our escapade through immense landscapes of Cru Boutenac vineyards, amidst which stands the château of Saint-Martin-de-Toques. Arriving at Fontfroide Abbey, we recharge the batteries: both the bike's and ours! We climb up to the Croix de l'Abbé de Fontfroide to overlook the abbey and its surroundings. One lunch and a descent later, the tour of the abbey is a real escape between mineral and vegetal. The tour of the abbey ends with a visit to the rose garden, where numerous flowers take advantage of the mild October weather to put on a spectacular show. A delight for the senses. Back on the bikes, we continue to ride through the Aude countryside. Once again skirting rows of orange vines, we pass through flat landscapes. After spanning the Aude river, our path opens onto the Canal du Midi at Ventenac-en-Minervois. The calm waters soothe us, and we are delighted to discover the Château de Ventenac-en-Minervois towering above the canal. The village of Sallèles-d'Aude surprises us with the beauty of its mansions lining the waterway.

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With a home-cooked breakfast prepared by our host, we start the day in Sallèles-d'Aude in the best possible conditions. We make our way up from lock to lock to reach the Canal du Midi and observe the attractive spectacle of the basins emptying and filling up as the boats move along. Countless umbrella pines line the banks of the canal, offering strollers peaceful shady spots. The Amphoralis museum takes shape, overlooking the archaeological excavations of a Gallo-Roman amphora production workshop. The golden hour offers a magical spectacle. The water glistens with thousands of golden reflections, and we savor the good fortune of being in such a place. We arrive in the charming hamlet of Le Somail. Its architectural ensemble and numerous guinguettes invite us to take a gourmet break under the curious gaze of the geese. The evening lights change from orange to pink, before the night gently envelops us, revealing above us the lights of the village of Quarante. A final effort brings us to our residence for the night. It's David who welcomes us this evening, and his acute sense of hospitality does not fail to comfort us.

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After a restorative night's sleep, our host prepares us for the day ahead with a hearty family breakfast. We set off through landscapes alternating between hillside vineyards, pine groves and cypress trees. We greet the winegrowers as they work in the morning sunshine. Arriving in Poilhes (pronounced ployé), we fall under the spell of an unexpected little square, populated by two large plane trees and an olive tree, behind which hides a small restaurant that exudes the Languedoc art of living. A couple are enjoying a leisurely lunch in the sun, and we can't resist the chance to take in the idyllic setting. We then return to the waterway, whose route will take us all the way to Béziers, our final destination. We enjoy the peacefulness of our progress. The water is calm, and many boats ply the Canal. We pedal on to Colombiers, the penultimate stage of our cycling journey. It's an opportunity for us to take a break in this pretty village and watch a game of pétanque being played in the light of sunset. We feel that the end of our journey is approaching, and that we'll soon have to say goodbye to the canal that has accompanied us on this escapade. The arrival at the famous 9 locks of Fonseranes offers us a lively spectacle. This singular place of transition between nature and the city, with this extraordinary structure always in action, amazes us. Several onlookers watch the captivating ballet of boats. Further down, a fisherman casts his line at the foot of the first oval basin, while the last visitors disperse. Unable to bring ourselves to leave the Canal du Midi, we embark on a moonlit dinner cruise to enjoy a local meal while contemplating the changing colors of the waterway. Later that night, we return to our hotel in the center of Béziers.

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This morning, we end our escapade with a final morning in the streets of Béziers, relieved of our bikes by Ben, the rental company who has come from Carcassonne to pick them up. We follow the hotel manager's advice to follow the Allées Paul Riquet, the beating heart of the city center. We end up getting lost in the old town, among the narrow cobbled streets. From the square in front of the Saint-Nazaire cathedral, the panorama reminds us of the villages we've passed through so far, and gives us a chance to reflect on what we've experienced since leaving Carcassonne. Before heading back to the station, we stop off at the tourist information office to pick up a few sweets and local products as a souvenir of this pleasant escapade, our hearts filled with unforgettable memories, surprising encounters and exceptional landscapes.

The electric bike is a great way to cover long distances, but also to reduce effort! Here's a tip for all you out-of-towners: if your battery runs out, look for a plug in the market square - there's always one!
The Canal du Midi and its heritage are maintained on a daily basis (new planting, maintenance of engineering structures, etc.). Before you set off, we advise you to check the condition of the towpath you plan to use at vnf.fr/vnf/regions/vnf-sud-ouest/. Cycling is currently practiced on unstabilized terrain, and some paths can be rough. For a successful experience, choose a suitable mountain bike or VTC.
The Highway Code applies on this itinerary, so please respect all users (pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders). Safety is no joke: we recommend you wear a helmet when cycling!
When you set off on a hike, leave your bike in a safe place, either with your host when possible, or in a private or communal place (restaurant, gîte...). If you leave your bike unattended, don't forget to secure it with the lock provided by your bike hire company, and remove the battery.
Ask your bike hire company if they can provide you with one or more panniers, and find out how big they are so that you can fit your belongings in them. And check whether they supply a first-aid kit and bike pump, as well as an efficient night-lighting system.
Pedal lightly and find your luggage at your next stop thanks to portage services such as Bagafrance: bagafrance.com
Some accommodations don't have a bank terminal. Make sure you have a checkbook and some cash before you leave.
During the hunting season, don't forget to check the hunting season.

https://www.herault-tourisme.com/fr/

Hérault Tourism

Car-Free Nature Getaway